By viewing the motion picture musicals of the 1930's and '40's it is
evident that the 100% cotton (no nylon or Lycra blends), wool, and
rayon leotards and tights, inflexible dance pants, and loose rehearsal
blouses and shirts were long ago superceded by body contouring fabrics. The ensuing popularity of
dancewear fabrics and styles as promoted by the streetwear fashion
industry has led to ongoing misuse of terminology - a dictionary easily
clarifies that a leotard is a torso, not a legwear garment, and that
leggings protect the legs, below the fanny. Unfortunately, in an effort
to obtain fashion sales, some dancewear manufacturers have resorted to
equally confusing language. While there have been some dance bodywear
inovations since the 1950's, the majority of items now being sold are
functionally based on designs defined fifty or more years ago. The
following information is offered in an effort to elliminate confusion
generated by temporary fads, promotional hype, or "ad-speak". With rare
exceptions, the terms here used are those originally established to
describe a dancewear style or function - after all, until the
human body radically changes, tights are still tights, leotards cover
the torso, and pants pull up, at least, onto the hips.
Generally, the term "dancewear" includes various torso and leg-wear,
footwear, costuming, headpieces, and other costume accessories. To
simplify referencing, "dancewear" will herein categorize non-shoe
bodywear primarilly designed for dance class and rehearsal use. Because
the fundamental objective of all movement arts is the visual
presentation of the human body, unless otherwise specified, all
dancewear may be assumed to contour the shape of the wearer.
HISTORY
After World War II the commercial availability of nylon revolutionized
the dance bodywear industry. Moderately priced form-fitting fully
flexible garments permitted complete freedom of movement with clarity
of body silhouette. Movies, television, and the growing availability of
local dance instruction rapidly expanded personal theater dance involvement as
students, performers, and participants in musical
theater. Ease of dancewear manufacture and and the increased market
resulted in numerous new style variations during the '50's, and with
the introduction of Milliskin in the '60's, new styles (unitards and pants that held to the wearer's shape) radically
expanded gymnastics, swimwear, and fashion applications (remember those
disco leotards and skirts). Fashion variations continue to radically differ, but dancewear styles remain relatively traditional.
STYLE GALLERY
Although each manufacturer developes their own designs
and patterns, the graphics below illustrate several common
leotard, unitard/jumpsuit, top, and pant styles and a few variations.
Keep in mind garments will shape differently to different bodies.
DEFINITIONS
Dancewear Garments
Unless otherwise noted, all dancewear garments are form fitting {see Dancewear Fabrics below}.
dance supporter men's front supportive undergarment dance belt dance supporter with wider, abdomen supportive waist band support brief women's abdomen supporting undergarment dance trunk (or brief) outerwear panty {see Trunks below} tights
light to moderate weight leg covering
from waist {see Tights below} pants
leotard weight garment from waist onto legs
{see Pants below} bra
bust support garment (under or
outer wear) bra top
bust length outer wear top (may be supportive) topper (or top) upper torso (usually above waist) shirt
upper torso to or below waist bodysuit leotard with snapped crotch leotard
covers torso (like a lady's one-piece swimsuit) {see Leotards
below} unitard
tight one
piece torso and leg coverage without feet leotite footed unitard TCL
Total Coverage Leotite including hands, feet, and
hood (with or without face coverage) jumpsuit
partially fitted 1-piece torso and legs (usually loose legs) skirt
skirt (various open-bottom
styles which flow downward from the waist) calf warmer below knee to top of foot heavier knitwear leg warmer thigh to top of foot knitwear body warmer unitard or jumpsuit knitwear warm-up sweater knitwear, usually long sleeved which wraps and has waist ties (wrap sweater) Trunks & Supporters full-cut, SHCL, HCL, VHCL supporters: thong, men's full seat
While leotard leg openings may be varied, leg cut is usually a defining
style element of dance trunks and support briefs. When leg opening is
not specified, most manufacturers intend it to provide a full seat and
contour along the front thigh joint. Remember, fitting varies with each
body. SHCL Semi-High-Cut Leg is about 1" above the front thigh joint as it contours toward the side pelvis HCL
High-Cut-Leg is at the pelvic bone prominance, the back of
the opening is slightly higher on the buttocks VHCL
Very-High-Cut Leg is nearly waist high, yielding a
narrow side waist band and substantial rear hips exposure V-leg
HCL or VHCL variation, side hips are inverted
V-shaped thong
a narrow T-shaped vertical back strap, yielding buttocks
exposure
Request information regarding Exotic costuming T-strap and G-string designs.
Tights
All tights are form fitting. Most children's and ladies'
styles are seamless, translucent, and of moderate weight fabric
allowing, under strong lighting, skin tone to affect fabric color.
Men's tights are heavier, thus more, to completely, opaque. The original
dancewear design covered the body from the waist downward. Other stock
variations are noted below. footless waist to ankle coverage stirrup
footless tights with and under-the-sole strap open-sole (or "convertible") footed tights with a partially "slit" sole "body-tights" a currently popular term for a camisole leotite undergarment full fashioned
leg-shape-cut tights with wider
thigh and calf, narrower knee and ankle, requiring a back seam "over-boot" a currently popular term for tights designed to fit over skates
Pants
LEGS
The following descriptions usually reference the shape of full length
leg styles. When exact leg width is required, the measurement is made
of the extended pant leg folded flat on a table. bloused very loose with open or bound cuff wide
upper thigh size or wider
(usually straight cut) straight
tight through mid-thigh, then the same leg width to
the bottom flared
widens, usually from near below the knee bell
wide flare
near bottom tapered
leg narrows downward, usually from below knee slouch
a narrow straight or
tapered over-length leg which piles on the top of the foot
The following styles are generally form fitting and vary by length. stirrup
tight or tapered ankle length with an
arch strap tight
top of ankle
length capri
calf length pedal-pusher knee length bike (or bike shorts) mid-thigh length shorts
upper thigh
length
WAISTS
Common waistline variations, usually lowering the top of the pants.
V-waist
front tapered to a lower
center low-rise
alligned approximately near the top of the pelvis hip-hugger
generally alligned at the maximum hips measurement
Leotards
Leotard styles are generally described by sleeve, front neckline,
back, and leg opening {see Trunks & Supporters sbove}.
SLEEVES
camisole narrow shoulder straps tank
1" - 2" shoulder straps sleeveless 2" - 4" shoulder straps cap
extends over
top of shoulder petal
variously appended
(usually ruffled) cap, draping onto upper arm short
form fitting down onto upper arm ¾ form fitting down to mid-forearm long
form fitting to wrist puff shoulder with bloused shoulder, usually long sleeve puffed
long sleeve with puffed upper arm bloused full length bloused long sleeve
Additional variations exist; e.g., multi-strap camisoles or 1-shoulder styles.
NECKLINES
turtle (or T-) extends up neck, zipper back round
circles base of neck, zipper back high
scoop down to sternum boat
wider scoop onto shoulders scoop
dip to top of bust V-
dip
between breasts adjustable drawstring adjustable from scoop to V- sweetheart slightly V-neck camisole halter
ties behind neck
BACKS
hole usually below a turtle-neck square
less rounded cross (X-) straps cross Y- (or racer) Y-shaped V-
V-shaped low
below
bra-line deep
scoop or V- to near
waist
FRONTS
princess
various
(mostly vertical) seam designs intended to better pre-shape
(full-fashion) the bodice and waist
Skirts
WAISTS
wrap
wrap-around with waist ties
elasti-waist pull-on with elasticized waist mock wrap
elasti-waist
with overlapping skirt end-layers representing a "wrap & tie" effect zippered
non-elastic waist-band with
fastener above side or back zipper
SHAPES
Common patterns.
demi
short wrap style with curved bottom corners
which leave a center-front lower opening when worn
circle
when laid flat the skirt
hem descibes a full circle
tapered assymetrical hemline
petal
assymetrical hemline longer
in back
cascade
layered style with shorter outer layers, commonly
assymetrical
handkerchief multi-pointed hemline, frequently with the points offset by layer
paneled
similar to handkerchief with multiple with square-bottomed hemline scarf
handkerchief-like skirt composed of
several separate scarf-like drapes attached to the waistband
Dancewear Fabrics
The 1950's began with most dancewear made from nylon; then followed
nylon/rayon, nylon/polyester, nylon/Lycra, cotton/Lycra,
poly-velvet/Lycra, and several variations. The 21st Century has seen a
gradual fading of simple nylon and the addition of more Lycra
blends: micro-poly/Lycra, Tactel/Lycra, Supplex/Lycra, Sensura/Lycra,
Meryl/Lycra and variations and Spandex blends; as well as, various acrylic blends
for warmups and many stretch "glitz" fabrics for costuming. In an
attempt to simplify the fabric descriptions, GTS listings will be in
quantitative order; i.e., nylon/Lycra for compositions of 98% nylon/2%
Spandex or 90% nylon/10% Lycra. If, due to known allergies or other
requirements, compositional specifics are required, telephone
712/255-0972. If a nylon allergy exists, be aware that many of the above trademarked names are variants of nylon.
Because many of these blends function similarly, the
following nomenclatures will generally be used. nylon for 100% simple nylon,
nylon/poly, and nylon/very low % Lycra blends. These fabrics tend to contour around body shape and
have a matte to low sheen finish. nylon/Lycra for most nylon and
or poly-nylon blends with minimum 7% Lycra or Spandex. These blends tend to
be tighter fitting, yielding a more accurate body shape, with low to
high sheen. cotton/Lycra for combinations dominantly of cotton. These usually yield the softest contours and are a matte finish.
stretch velvet has some degree of distinctive velvet-like, relatively matte nap.
Special costume fabrics will be elsewhere separately described.
Sizes
Simply listed, basic dancewear sizes range from child Tots, Small,
Intermediate, Medium, Large through adult Petite, Small, Medium, Large,
eXtra-large. Additional sizes include several expansions of X (XX, XXX,
etc.); as well as, special cuts (child teeN, adult lonG, outsized, men's sizes,
etc.). When in doubt, or if you have special fitting requirements,
telephone. Individual manufacturer size charts are available on
request, with some currently included with dance costume information.
Return to PRODUCT CATEGORIES directory.
A portion of this file was last updated 5/28/09.
full-cut, SHCL, HCL, VHCL 
supporters: thong, men's full seat